Chinese fast-fashion brand SHEIN is set to open its first permanent physical store in Paris this November, located in the well-known BHV Marais department store. However, the move has sparked a series of backlash in the French capital, with the mayor, fashion industry figures, and major trade unions almost unanimously opposing the opening, criticising the brand for low prices achieved at the expense of labour exploitation and environmental harm.
A Cheap Brand Enters a High-End Retail Space
According to reports, the BHV store’s sixth floor, where SHEIN will be located, is a prime retail location with views of the Eiffel Tower. The move marks the first time a brand labelled “cheap,” “controversial,” and “disposable” will formally enter Parisian high-end department store space. Beyond Paris, SHEIN also plans to open permanent stores in Galeries Lafayette outlets in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers, and Limoges.
Political and Industry Opposition
Following the announcement, political figures and fashion industry representatives expressed strong disapproval. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo posted on social media: “Paris denounces the establishment of Shein, a symbol of fast fashion, at BHV Marais.” Yann Rivoallan, the head of the fashion retailers’ body Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, criticised: “In front of the Paris City Hall, they are creating the new Shein megastore, which – after destroying dozens of French brands – aims to flood our market even more massively with disposable products.” An online petition opposing SHEIN’s entry gathered nearly 100,000 signatures in just one week, demonstrating broad public concern.
Union-Led Protests
Several major French trade unions, including the French Democratic Confederation of Labour (Confédération française démocratique du travail, CFDT) , Force Ouvrière (FO), French Confederation of Management – General Confederation of Executives (Confédération française de l’encadrement – Confédération générale des cadres, CFE-CGC), and the General Confederation of Labour (France) (Confédération Générale du Travail, CGT), jointly organised demonstrations. Dozens of BHV employees protested outside the store this month, opposing SHEIN’s presence.
Union representatives highlighted that BHV has struggled in recent years, with delayed payments to brands causing stock shortages and sales setbacks, leaving staff concerned about job security. Several brands have already withdrawn from the store in protest at SHEIN’s arrival, worsening the outlook.
Brands Withdraw, Staff Morale Shaken
Mathilde Lacombe, co-founder of cosmetics brand Aime, announced her brand’s departure from BHV, expressing being “shocked” by SHEIN’s entry. French lingerie brand Le Slip Français had already decided to leave due to delayed payments by its parent company; founder Guillaume Gibault commented: “Working with SHEIN only confirmed that leaving BHV was the right decision.”
BHV union representative Florine Biais noted: “Our customers have already left because they can’t find what they want, but they’re also concerned and don’t approve of Shein’s arrival.” Another staff member added: “SHEIN goes against our values. We have always promoted corporate social responsibility and offered diverse, quality brands, but now a cheap fast-fashion brand is replacing them.”
OECD Investigation Highlights Exploitative Practices
SHEIN’s controversies extend beyond France. Recently, the OECD’s French National Contact Point (NCP) investigated the company, finding its operations do not comply with the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises. The investigation, prompted by French MPs Dominique Potier and Boris Vallaud, concluded that SHEIN has “structural deficiencies” in labour protection, posing a high risk of rights violations. Swiss NGO Public Eye’s research found that SHEIN workers face up to 75-hour workweeks, paid per piece, lacking formal contracts or social security, with restrictions on freedom of association.
The NCP’s final report identified violations of OECD guidelines, including insufficient due diligence and information disclosure, failure to prevent child and forced labour, unclear rules on working hours and wages, and overreliance on Chinese domestic law while ignoring international standards. French and international trade unions are calling for SHEIN to engage in dialogue with worker representatives and global unions to ensure systemic reforms. The NCP will review SHEIN’s progress in six months.
Photo: Dimitar Dilkoff/Getty Images